Saturday, October 31, 2009

A Ride On Halloween Eve.......





The storm cells had lashed down from the crest of the Cascade Mountains all day long. The white, swiftly moving clouds carried high winds and swirling snow, but they hadn’t dampened my enjoyment of the ride, a ride I had rather daringly decided to take on Halloween Eve. On the contrary, I was laughing inside my helmet like a being demented when I swung into the White Pass gas station for fuel and a coffee.

As I rocked the Nighthawk 750 back onto its center-stand, someone behind me said, “a good road, what?”

I turned to find a small man with a long face and penetrating eyes. He was dressed in old fashioned trousers and high boots, and his worn jacket appeared to be of waxed cotton.

“Hell of a road,” I enthused. “Love this route! Are you Canadian?” His accent was rich and obvious.

“Welsh,” he replied. “Will she do the ton?”

“Pardon me,” I asked.

“Will she make 100 an hour?”

“Oh, hell, yes! I think the top-end is somewhere around 120.... but I’m too old for that! She’s not one of the new super-bikes, but she was cheap and she is smooth.... just right for these curly roads.”

He squatted to look closer at the engine, nodding. “Four cylinders,” he mused.

“I also have a Wing, for the wife and me, “ I said, pulling my helmet off. “But, damned if I don’t like to get out here alone occasionally on something, well, smaller....no, not just smaller... something more...well.... more responsive.”

He rose up and smiled at me. “Something with a ‘touch of blood’, hey? You must have a motorbike income!”

I thought that a strange comment but let it pass.

I looked around. “Where’s your bike?”

“Around back, “ he replied. “I needed a spot of air, and the hose is there. It’s an old thing, not like yours at all.”

“Want some coffee?”

He hesitated, staring at me with those penetrating eyes. “Well, I suppose so.”

“My name is Gough,” I said, offering my hand. He shook it fleetingly, ignoring my introduction. Uncharacteristically, I took no offense at that.

Inside, the waitress smiled at us and gestured at a coffee urn surrounded by thick mugs.

“Coffee, “ I asked the man in the cotton jacket.

“Umm, no, rather...., “ he looked at the waitress. “Have you tea?”

After the waitress had brought him a pot of hot water and a bag, he sat looking at the bag with a puzzled look on his face..

“Tear it open, dip it in.”

He did so, and we sat down at a small table. Over us, a small color TV on a shelf blasted out CNN.

He gestured at it with his mug.

“You Yanks have fallen into that, hey?”

“Yeah,” I replied. “Freakin’ Arabs.... can’t predict what they’re gonna do.”

“Your main problem isn’t the Arabs, it’s the Mesopotamians and the Persians – that and your inability to understand any of them.”

“Well, trying to put the damn country together is all we’re trying to do.”

He sipped his tea, grimaced.

“It’s not a country, not by far,” he said. “It’s three.... Sunni, Shiite, and Kurd. It’ll never go together. And to be effective with the Arabs, you must adopt their kit. Americans are quite useless with other people’s kit, aren’t they?”

He saw the look on my face and visibly softened. “No offense, old boy.... when we Brits were in there the Colonial office wouldn’t listen, either!”

He stood, clasped his hands behind his back. “Matter of fact, we were the ones who created Iraq... height of stupidity, really..... three old men.”

I looked at him. “Were you a soldier?”

He looked out into the white storm. “Rather..... RAF..... and you?”

“Tanker,” I replied. “And armor scout.... but maybe we’ll get ‘er done over there, yet.”

He turned and looked at me with a strange smile, and then back out at sunlight suddenly streaming through the clouds. “All men dream, but not equally.....mountains are strange,” he said. “I prefer deserts myself.”

“The roads are too straight in deserts......”

“Perhaps, but the destinations are not at all apparent.” He pulled on long gauntlets of thick leather.. “Must be off, ta for now.......” And without another word he put some bills on the table and went out the door.

I sat sipping my coffee, and thinking of the strange Welshman. The waitress sang softly to herself and CNN blared in the background. Suddenly, there was a rich, syncopated thunder and an impossibly long, black and nickel-plated apparition passed by the window, its dual fishtail exhausts gleaming in the watery sunlight. I stumbled to my feet and ran to the window, my blood as cold as the ice pelting down from the white clouds above.

“Jesus Christ!” My voice cracked, “Holy Mother of God!”

The rider sat forward on the long bike, wearing goggles and an old pilot’s cap backwards on his head. He waved once with a casual, leather-gloved hand, and then he was gone, the bike snarling in the wind.

The waitress was beside me. “What was that,” she asked.

I swallowed, and spoke with a dry, halting voice. “It was a Brough Superior,” I said. “I’ve never seen one before, but, as sure as the God above, that was a Brough.......”

I turned to the girl. “The fellow just here, the Welshman, did he give his name?”

“No,” she said. But then she smiled. “I got the air hose out for him when he first came....he did call his bike a name, though.... Bo-journey..Bo-jarney, somethin’ like that......”

“Boanerges,” I said, my breath ragged in my throat.

“That’s it, I think....,” she said. “What’s it mean?”

“Sons of Thunder,” I replied. “Have you ever heard of TE Lawrence? Lawrence of Arabia? That’s what he named his Broughs....Sons of Thunder......”

The waitress stared at me like I was truly the madman that I was acting like, and moved carefully back to her counter. I then paid her and went out to my bike on wooden legs, while above me the white clouds, like desert Arabs on camels, raged across a tortured sky.

Dues.....




Several years ago, I was skiing “off the jacket,” (not on ski patrol duty), and riding up a chairlift on Snoqualmie Pass-- when I noticed a group of striking elderly men, still straight and graceful, all skiing in single file, all dressed totally in white, all carving nicely linked, expert turns one right after the other....

“What the devil,” I muttered, turning around to watch them as they passed under me.

They were headed for a sort of flat area, where I noticed several tables being set up and a small crowd of people milling around. I got off the chair and dropped quickly down off the main face to get to the flat area, to see what was going on. I soon discovered that the men in white were survivors of the U.S. Army’s WWII 10th Mountain Division! Put together by Minnie Dole, the founder of the National Ski Patrol, The storied 10th Mountain – an infantry unit made up of ski patrollers, ski instructors, mountain guides, and lumberjacks – passed into history for its brilliant and valiant efforts in the Italian campaign during WW II, and is still in existence today – based in Ft. Drum, New York, and carrying the brunt of the burden in Afghanistan. I was thrilled to the core.

As I rode up the chair with one of the 10th Mountain veterans, a lean fellow from Colorado with a full head of white hair, I turned and said to him:

“This is great! You guys have been my heroes forever!”

“Well,” he said, fastening his clear blue eyes on me, “I don’t know about being a hero, but I’m just so, so grateful to be here, to just be able to come up here and still ski! Just so grateful that I can still do it.” He then told me that he was eighty years old.

“Damn,” I said, glancing around. “All you 10th guys look pretty good! In shape and solid!”

“Yes,” he said. “Skiing is something an old fellow like me can do for a long, long time...almost forever...long as he’s willing to pay his dues!”

“Dues? What are the dues?”

The old warrior grinned at me. “Constant exercise and constant smart living... only way to pay your dues up here, son.....only way.”

I’ve never forgotten that conversation with that brave old warrior. I am sixty seven now, and have already had a full and good life. But I am not ready to be done, not just yet, not just yet, and I am ready and willing to pay and keep paying my dues, pay them to that inevitable last, breathtaking ride, to the inevitable last, heart-hammering ski run, to the day that someone bends down and closes my eyelids for me. And I hope that when he does, I will have a smile on my parted lips, with the flush of life and blood still in my cheeks.... God, I love living! It won’t last forever, but I plan to wring every last drop of joy and love and adventure out of every passing moment!

Here are my dues:
-Twice a week, I climb, winter or summer, a 1700' mountain trail here near my home.... I have two or three routes to choose from
-Three times a week (when not climbing), I walk 3 miles to meet my wife at her school, and then three miles back with her...
-Two times a week, I lift weights, with light weight and slow, high repetitions, according to the following menu:
- Squats (3X10 plus); leg extensions (3X10 plus)
- Bench Press (3X10 plus)
- Bent-over Dumbbell rows (3X10 plus)
- Elastic tube pull across and pull aways, for my rotator cuffs, (3X20plus)
-During the weekends, in the summer I go for a long hike; in winter, I ski Friday night, Saturday, and Sunday......
- I quit smoking before 1970, and quit all alcohol in 1989...

With this regimen, I hope to be skiing and riding a motorcycle, and more importantly, loving my wife, my son, and all our friends and family, until I’m eighty or more. It may not pay off that much, I may die in my sleep tonight, or be hit by another deer and die tomorrow.....but then again, pay off it might! In the meantime, I’ll pay my dues and drink deep of everything life offers!

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Lightning.....



I hate lightning... hate it beyond reason and logic. Lightning is like a mortar barrage: malevolent and impersonal and yet deeply and horribly intimate when it builds and strikes, when it seems to threaten you personally, when it seems to threaten you above all other living things on earth-- and it seems that that every road that Red and I ride in lightning weather will lead directly toward the area of most danger, the area of the darkest and dirtiest cloud and storm. The road never seems to lead away from the storm, but instead leads right toward it.

And the threat is real. Unlike auto drivers, motorcyclists are not protected by a comforting cocoon of metal running on rubber tires to redirect and harmlessly channel that terrible violence around you. No sir! Get hit by lightning while riding your bike and you are dead, dead, dead....a bolt through your face shield and out the heel of your favorite riding boot leaves no room for argument, no question unanswered, no appeal... you are simply deep-fried and cooked at your handlebars... ticket punched... time expired... dead.

Once, early in our riding career, Red and I were in Greybull, Wyoming, and trying to leave it (not an uncommon impulse in Greybull); we were trying to get out of town and go east over the beautiful Big Horn Mountains. Often in the U.S., the summer jet stream will dip down and stake out a parabolic line clear across the country, a line of battle where cold fronts and warm fronts square off, where the great towering anvil-shaped storm clouds gather, where the deadly lightning lurks.... They call such events “Summers of Fire.” It was during one of these “Summers of Fire” when we tried to leave Greybull one afternoon.

“It doesn’t look too bad,” said Red. “Does it?”

Red is by nature much braver than I.

I looked at the Big Horn mountains, at the masses of vapor and the gathering, boiling, angry energy above them. “Uuuuuhhhhhhh,” I said.

I hate to say no to Red.

“Why don’t we give it a try?” Red was patient, cajoling. “If it gets bad, we can always turn back!”

“Uuuuuuhhhhh,” I said again. “Well, uuuhhh, okay..........I guess.....!”

I started our old Wing and we pulled out on Highway 14, a beautiful two lane road heading almost directly into the heart of the developing monster. Everything went well...for about 45 seconds ...and then...

KaaChuunk!

A bright blue bolt of incredible beauty, as straight as a ruler, full of energy and horror, came ripping down from the heavens, ripping straight down on Highway 14, straight down right on the center line! No more than 300 meters ahead of us! The centerline! 300 meters!

I immediately wheeled the Wing into a tight, 180 degree turn -- one of the tightest I have ever made, by the way -- and we headed straight back to Greybull and to the nearest cheap motel.

“That’s it, “ I yelled. “I get the message! That’s my Higher Power’s way of saying, ‘This road closed until further notice!’ Not even a night in Greybull could be more threatening than this!”

Red hung on tightly and said nothing......

The next morning we rode over the wonderful Big Horns in bright, calm sunshine, and at the summit, we could see The Great Plains of America spreading before us, an immense patchwork quilt of farms and prairies... stretching east as far as human eyes can see.

You deal with lightning on nature's terms, not yours.

On another trip, again during another “Summer of Fire,” we were returning home through Montana and wanted to ride Highway 43 along the Wisdom River. It’s a ride of haunting beauty, along a penultimate Rocky mountain river, complete with the sad historical site of the Big Hole Battlefield, where the U.S. Army attacked an unsuspecting camp of the Nez Perce Indians. Firing at first light through buffalo skin lodges and killing many women and children, the Army initially drove the Nez Perce to flight, but the warriors quickly regrouped and one by one and two by two, fighting from bush to bush, pushed the U.S. troops back to the top of a high knoll, where the soldiers hung on for their lives. It was definitely not one of the Army’s finest moments. The last stand trenches scraped out by the frantic troopers with mess tins, cups, and bayonets are still there -- silent, overgrown hollows in the ground, still filled with a faint aura of desperation and horror.

Highway 43 at it’s eastern terminus near Dillon runs between the high walls of a deep canyon. And that’s where Red and I found ourselves when the first bolts rained down several years ago.... I could actually see the strikes hitting on the ridge tops, the impact areas marked by great balls of orange fire. It was the most dramatic electrical storm I had ever witnessed with strikes coming 2, 3, and even 4 times per minute. The wind was also screaming, with rain and hail flying sideways.

I stopped the bike and turned and yelled at Red. “Should I turn around?”

“And do what, go where” yelled Red back. “It’s as bad behind us as it is in front!”

And so we went on, our hearts in our throats and in genuine fear for our lives, although we were actually in little danger since the strikes seemed confined to the ridge tops. Eventually we stumbled across a five-star restaurant catering to rich fly fishermen and took refuge in it, dawdling over an expansive and expensive meal that we couldn’t afford, while the storm played itself out among the ridges and the sun broke through again.

You deal with lightning on nature’s terms, not yours.

This year was another of the “Summer of Fires” with storms plaguing us throughout the season. In September, Red and I rode to Colorado and back for an international motorcycle rally. We rolled out of Utah on Highway 40, and then took Highway 139 south toward Montrose, Colorado, our ultimate destination. Highway 139! Occasionally, the motorcyclist will get very lucky and stumble upon a road like 139. Deserted, well-paved, winding through lovely, interesting country – Highway 139 was our discovery of the year. We were absolutely loving it; roads like these are the reason we ride; but the hour was growing late, and in the west, over our right shoulders, still miles away but coming our way, towered one of those building, rising, anvil-shaped clouds. And in the back of my throat I felt that old metallic taste, the taste I remember from the Vietnam of my youth and of all the other thunderstorms I’ve ever seen.

“Damn,” I muttered to Red. “I hope we get in before that sucker gets here....looks ugly!”

“We will,” smiled Red. “Don’t worry, we’ll be alright.....!”

Red is by nature more optimistic than I. Much.

But the storm marched down upon us steadily, and great bolts of powerful lightning were beginning to streak down from it’s ugly, roiling mass. I kept stealing anxious looks over my shoulder, and it was getting dark now, getting dark fast. And we had sixty miles to go...

Suddenly, my whole cockpit lit up in a blinding flash.

“Holy Crap,” I yelled to Red. “How close was that thing?!!?”

“How close was what,” she yelled back.

“The lightning bolt! It was close, didn’t you see it?”

“No,” she replied. “I didn’t see anything!”

We rode a little more, and, suddenly, another blinding flash reflected off of my windscreen, instrument panel, and mirrors.

“Holy Damn,” I screamed. “How close was that one?”

“How close was what,” asked Red. “I’m not seeing anything!”

“You have to be!” I yelled at Red, exasperated beyond measure. “I have to know how close they are, which way they’re coming from.....!”

“I’m not seeing them,” said Red, equally exasperated.

Another blinding flash.... And I was by this time absolutely terrified...

“Jesus!” I yelled “Look for a building, a barn, something! We gotta get under cover!”

“I don’t understand it, “ muttered Red. “I’m just not seeing anything.......!”

And then I got a glimpse of her moving around in my mirror.

“Hey,” I yelled. “What are you doing back there?”

“Nothing...taking a few pictures is all.......”

“And is the camera flash going off,” I asked.

There was a moment of silence from the rear seat, and then we both burst into wild laughter. Red often takes photos off the rear seat, and the lightning flashes that were terrifying me so were coming from her camera.

We barreled into Montrose minutes ahead of the powerful storm, still safe, still minutes ahead of the real lightning. Laughing like demons, we quickly unloaded the bike and tumbled into the warmth and security of our cheap motel, where we ordered up delivery pizza, and ate it sitting on the bed while enjoying the flashes outside our motel window.

You have to deal with even non-existent lightning on nature’s terms, not yours!

Monday, October 26, 2009

Pillion.....



Pillion

1. A pad or cushion for an extra rider behind the saddle on a horse or motorcycle.
2. A bicycle or motorcycle saddle.
3. One who rides on a pillion.
[Probably from Scottish Gaelic pillean, diminutive of peall, rug, or Irish Gaelic pillín, diminutive of pell, rug, both from Old Irish pell, from Latin pellis, animal skin.]




She climbed on the back of my 1978 Suzuki 750 GS nearly twenty years ago, and has
been back there since. She’s survived a major, life-threatening accident, and has gone through four bikes, 41 states, and two continents. She’s camped in the rain, the snow, and the dust, and has eaten everything from cold spaghetti straight from a can to fresh caught salmon in a five star restaurant without a whimper or a whine.

She’s ridden through rainstorms, windstorms, hailstorms, snowstorms, dust storms, and lightning storms. She’s helped me pitch a tent and make camp on gravel, mud, sod, concrete, and, on one occasion, in a Pennsylvania campground alongside the Susquehanna River, a campground so deserted, weird, and spooky that we thought we had ridden into a Steven King novel! She’s seen Paris, France, and Paris, Tennessee. She’s stayed in luxurious hotels and in hovels worthy of the third world..... and nothing seems to bother her.... nothing... nothing except perhaps me getting seriously upset about some piddling, insignificant issue – and that she doesn’t like, doesn’t like it at all.

She’s ridden in heat that almost stifled us, and in cold that rendered her speechless. Only once, high on the frosty summit of Lost Trail Past in Idaho, during a 29 degree, icy morning, did she run inside a heated building and refuse to come out and get back on the bike. She had an accomplice, though, my laughing elf of a son. Both of them wrapped their hands around cups of steaming hot chocolate and sat and laughed at me from behind the plate glass window, laughing merrily at my frantic gestures for them to come back out.... Sometimes at night, when she sleeps, I remember how they both looked behind that window, and I have to bite my lip to keep from laughing out loud, to keep from waking her.

Countless times we have run into problems on our trips that she solved, that she fixed, and she was often the reason we got home. She is almost unconsciously competent, and once she applies her steady mind and steady outlook, things get better....really better...and really fast. She's amazingly adaptable, amazingly flexible....

Once, we were all packed up on the bike and ready to set out on our second trip to Alaska. For some unaccountable reason, I didn’t want to go up there that year.... didn’t know why....just felt we shouldn’t go....no reason that I could identify, and we had been planning the trip for months. I just had this overwhelming sense of impending dread that I could not overcome. And it was no joke. She finished locking up our house and came down our steps, smiling, as usual...

“Honey,” I said. “I know you’re not going to believe this, but... I’ve changed my mind. We’re going to Arkansas instead of Alaska!”

She blinked at me...just once...just one blink, and then she smiled and said, “well, okay, sure, but I better go back in and let my mother know!"

A year ago this summer, she almost lost her left hand in our first major accident, and I wasn’t sure she would ever ride again. But ten months after we were released from the hospital, she climbed back on the back of our new bike that we had bought with the insurance money, and said cheerfully, “whenever you’re ready!” We started it up and rode across the country again, from Washington State to North Carolina, and then out along the beautiful Blue Ridge, and if she was nervous at all during the trip, I never knew it.

Occasionally, I’ll catch a glance of her in my rearview mirrors, her lovely hair and soft smile
hidden by plastic and fiberglass, and I ask the gods: What did I ever do to deserve her, my life’s
partner, my wonderful pillion! She puts the sun in my skies .... and I’ll love her forever.

A Very Good Run......





It had been a good run -- over Lolo Pass into Montana, then over Beartooth Pass into
Wyoming, and then over the Bighorns onto the High Plains. The bike, with the cylinder heads I had to have rebuilt because I had screwed up and timed them 180 out, ran sweet and cool – but in a campground at Springfield, Missouri, I hurried an oil change and stripped out the threads for the oil filter basket.

“Damn, “ I said to the Redhead, who sat on a picnic table watching me.

“What happened,” she asked gently.

“Ah, hell.” I looked at her and rubbed grease off my fingers. “Stripped it! Can’t believe I did that! I’ll try and borrow a big wrench somewhere and put the damn thing in anyway. I just hope it lasts the trip!”

I borrowed a big crescent wrench off a drunk in a Chevy and slowly and carefully
tapped the cross-threaded nut into the soft aluminum of the engine case. I tightened it
as much as I dared, and then I started the old Wing up and we both watched the gravel underneath
for new oil drips, our hearts in our mouths.

After a moment, the Redhead looked at me.

“It’s not leaking, huh?”

“Nope. And that’s good. That’s real good!”

The rest of the Missouri Ozarks went well, and then we dropped into velvety Arkansas,
with its twisty roads and heavy, muggy air. And then we were in Louisiana, where the red eyes of
alligators gleamed in the Cypress swamps at night, and New Orleans, our destination this trip,
lay less than 100 miles ahead.

We stopped at a convenience store to refuel. Black and white youths milled around the
pumps, both speaking a beautiful, soft and lilting dialect that we could barely understand. A black
man, drinking from a wine bottle in a paper sack, looked at our license plate.

“G’lawd, man,” he sang out.. “You is a long way gone, now, hain’tcha?”

I grinned at him, “Yessir.. A long way gone is a good way of putting it!”

“Washin’ton,” he said. “Nevah been thar.... no, I hain’t!”

“It’s beautiful,” I said. “Just like this place!”

He grinned at me.

I went inside to pay for our gas.. At a formica-topped table drinking a coke, sat the oldest
black woman I had ever seen. Her face was corrugated and lined and weathered, like pine
wood boards that have been in the wind for fifty winters. ‘Over a hundred years old’, I thought to myself, ‘she’s at least a hundred years old.’ She watched me as I put my helmet down on the counter and dug for my wallet.

“Y’all wear that big thang to protect yore brain?”

Her voice was vibrant, surprisingly youthful, and she stared steadily at me with gleaming
eyes that I could barely see. And then, somehow, I sensed the merriment in those ancient eyes..

I grinned at her and said, “ You are telling me that is hardly worth the bother, huh?”

She laughed gently. Her laugh, like her voice, was youthful, gentle, compelling.

“Why’y’all ride them thangs, anyhow? Doncha get wet when it rains?”

“Yeah,” I replied. “We get wet sometimes..... but it’s cheap this way. And fun. We feel free when we ride.”

The old lady took a deep swallow of her coke. She stared at me for a moment.

“Wahhl...,” she said. “That’s awright, Ah guess. All freedom ...even the middlin’ kind ... is
worth havin’.”

The young black girl waiting for my card said to the old woman gently, “ leave him be,
now, Auntie, he’s got somwhar to go....”

Outside my wife stood by the bike talking to man with the bottle in the bag.

“Who were you talking to,” she asked.

“Some ol’ lady that knows more ‘n me,” I answered.

“Quite a few of them around!” She grinned.

“That’d be ol’ Auntie,” laughed the man with the bag.

We geared up and pulled out, accelerating gently in the dusk, watching for the shining eyes of deer on the road and for the first glow of New Orleans. So far, it had been a very good run.

1992, The Peace River Valley





In 1992 and in the middle of the Peace River Valley, British Columbia, we pulled our 81' Goldwing and sidecar off of the highway to refuel at a small gas station and convenience store. My six year old son, his motorcycling patience evidently exhausted, shot up and out of his sidecar like a being possessed. My wife Red got off, pulled off her helmet, stretched, and smiled at me.

“Oh, damn,” she said, and tore off after the boy, who was already making the lives of some ducks on a small pond miserable by flinging stones at them. I cracked open the gas cap and refueled, and then went to pay.

Inside stood the most beautiful girl I’ve ever seen. About nineteen or twenty, she wore her short blonde hair in a page boy crop; her skin was as smooth as cream; her eyes were a deep water blue. She stood with unconscious grace, her lean figure slouched against the counter she tended. I could smell the soap in her freshly laundered shirt and jeans, and some sort of perfume in her hair. I swallowed hard.

“Pump four,” I said.

She glanced at her machine. “Nine forty seven,” she said. “Canadian.”
I handed her a ten, and received the change from her cool, delicate fingers.

“Going far,” she asked, her voice controlled, and low and slightly husky.

“Alaska,” I replied.

“That far, hey?”

She leaned over the counter to look outside at the Goldwing, her hair like silk in the filtered sunlight streaming through the grimy windows.

“Take me with you?” She asked with only a slight smile. “I am hard-working and clean.... won’t be any trouble. Can I go, please?”

I swallowed again.

“Well, huh, I’ve got two people already.... not enough room, you see.”

She smiled into my eyes. “Bad timing, hey?”

“At least that,” I said.

I went outside and beckoned to my crew. Red and I got the boy settled back into the sidecar, his hands full of toy soldiers, and then we put on our helmets, started the bike, and pulled out onto the highway heading north. I squeezed Red’s knee and looked into my mirrors, where the girl from the station leaned against a gasoline pump watching us go. I watched her figure grow ever smaller, and squeezed Red’s knee again.

“She was pretty, wasn’t she,” said Red, over the bike’s intercom.

“Yeah, very much so. But not as pretty as you......”

I could feel her smile through the back of my helmet.

Budget European Motorcycle Tour




After 28 years of caring for other people’s sons and daughters, after turning 62, and after having pre-paid my son’s college tuition with a state program, I felt the need for change.

“I think I’ll retire. And... oh, what the hell! Let’s go tour Europe by motorcycle,” I said to Red, my unflappable red-headed wife.

She smiled at me. “Let’s go tour Europe by camper van instead, “ she said.

She had a point. There were places in Europe I wanted to see -- Paris, Venice, Rome – in which I didn’t want to ride a bike. And a camping van would take care of the two most pressing and most complicated travel concerns for unsophisticated Americans: where to sleep and how to travel.

“Okay,” I smiled at her. “Let’s do it!”

And so we did; and, after a false start or two, it proved remarkably easy. We bought the van sight unseen over the internet from a 300 lb, dope-smoking, expatriate American hippy in Utrecht, who operated out of a 300 year old townhouse filled with bad artwork, dogs and cats, and the strong smell of marijuana and cat pee. After her chief mechanic, a jolly and affable Turk, tried to spike my coffee with vodka at 9:00am, I turned to Red and whispered, “Damn! Hope we didn’t buy a pig in a poke! Hope we don’t get burned on this damn van!”

But the hippy and her staff proved as honest as the day is long, and the ‘86 VW diesel conversion ran sweet and true for the eight weeks we owned it. With Red driving and me navigating from a portfolio of good Michelin maps, we drove to Rome, back up to Denmark, and back to Utrecht, without trouble and without difficulty. Amsterdam, Brugge, Paris, Normandy, Alsace-Lorraine, Colmar, Spolito, Rome, Cinque Terra, Venice, Innsbruck, Rothenburg Aum Der Tauber, Geneva, Interlaken.....Europe had been everything we’d hoped it would be – a rich tapestry of life and culture flowing past the windscreen of our camping van like a non-ending travel show. We learned early to camp outside of cultural areas and cities and then to take commercial transport into the heart of them. We experienced nothing but kindness and authentic interest from all the people we met . For two Yanks raised in small, humble, and dusty towns in western America, it had been a life-altering, life-enriching experience. Our camping costs had averaged around $20 a night, and had often been free.

As we stood outside the van in the spacious and beautiful Alpenblicke campground in Interlaken, Switzerland, looking up at the towering peaks of the Berner Oberland, I turned to Red and said:

“I wanna rent a bike! There’s gotta be some hellacious roads up there.”

“I know,” she said dubiously. “But we’re dangerously short of cash.”

“I want a bike,” I insisted, digging up a cherished copy of John Herman’s Motorcycle Tours in the Alps and Corsica from the bottom of my rucksack.

“Mmmmmmm,” said she.

The next morning we drove alongside a clear blue lake to Thune, where we had heard there was a very good motorcycle shop.

“Do you know how to find it,” Red asked.

“Naw,” I replied casually. “We’ll just drive around until we find it. How big can Thune be?”

Well, damn big, as it turned out. After hours of fruitless searching and some true frustration later, we finally pulled into the parking lot of one of the biggest, most modern motorcycle dealerships I’ve ever seen, Moto-Centre, Thune. The place was staffed by young, healthy, and athletic youngsters, most of whom spoke impeccable English.

“Many, many bikes to rent we have,” said one of the young and healthy athletes. Red and I strolled around the impressive selection of Beemer R machines and Honda Viffers and Pans, mentally counting up our cash and our wants – the Beemer GS 1150 I had my eye on rented for the equivalent of 1500 USD a week.

“Not enough, huh,” I asked Red, scarcely daring to hope.

“Well, “ said Red. “Let me put it this way; if we rent that GS, or any other bike for that matter, we don’t eat for the rest of the summer!”

“Damn it!” I turned away and started walking toward the van, knowing that she was right but angry about it anyway.

“What’s that,” I heard Red ask.. I turned and saw Red and the staffer bent over a low, sculpted shape. “Honda Silverwing scooter. 600cc. Ver,’ ver’ practical,” replied the young man.

“How much,” Red asked.

“That’s a motor scooter,” I said.

“$500 – for a week,” said the young man.

“I’m not touring the Alps on a ridiculous motor scooter, “ I yelled.

Minutes later I was doing practice figure eights in the parking lot on the Silverwing. Aside from the fact that I threw myself into the windscreen several times while trying to pull in the non-existent clutch, which is really a brake, and made myself look like an idiot waving my left foot around trying to find a non-existent shift lever, it wasn’t too bad.

And by the time we had reached our campground again, she in the van and me on the bike, after twenty miles of twisting lakeside road, I was literally enthralled.

“This damn thing rocks,” I yelled. “It corners faster than a cat on fire!”

Red just grinned.

For the next eight days, we experienced an Alpine vacation that surpassed all expectations. Every morning early, we’d crawl from our sleeping bags in the van, load the cargo area under the Silverwing’s comfortable seat with our rain gear and some bread, cheese, and water, and then head for Andermatt, the place John Hermann refers to as the center of “all thing motorcycling.” One by one some of the major alpine passes fell under our spinning scooter wheels: Susten, Firka, Grimsel, Oberalp, Lukmanier, St Gotthard, Brunig, Schallenberg, Glaubenbuelen. We visited Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, ate lunch in Swiss restaurants that were half cow barns, and drank $4 cups of coffee over a deep rocky gorge in which Napoleon had annihilated a entire Russian Army. We were, in fact, doing what we’d dreamed of for years. Without guides, without any money really, without much preplanning, we were doing it!

“I love you, “ I told my wise and precious wife. “How’d ya know this scooter thing would pan out so well?”

She smiled at me. “I have an advantage, “she said. “To me, a motorcycle, a scooter, whatever – they are all the same... just the means to an end. The shape, the size, doesn’t matter....”

I marveled again over how someone could be so gentle, so sweet, so strong, and so wise all at the same time.

And when we finally took and turned the scooter back in to the young staffers, I almost grieved for the damn thing.

“We gotta come back here, “ I said to Red. “Gotta come back someday. And soon!”

She smiled at me. “Why not,” she said.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

The Jacket In My Closet


Hanging always in my closet is a roughly made rubber jacket, cut and sewn from a U.S. Army poncho and lined with camo parachute silk. I have owned the thing for forty three years. It is the oldest personal possession I have.

As a young soldier in the U.S. Army Security Agency forty three years ago, I and others in my outfit took our issued army ponchos to a Chinese tailor in Nha Trang, Vietnam, and had the ponchos made into jackets. It only cost a few dollars and we thought we could clamber in and out of our 3/4 ton truck- mounted commo vans easier that way. We also thought the jackets and their camo linings looked pretty damned cool. And, at that time and place, maybe they did. The army let me bring the altered poncho home, but, if I remember right, and since I showed them the jacket rather than claim it as a combat loss, they charged me for it. A tour in Vietnam and the U.S. government charged me for the poncho. $11, I think. A grateful government’s thanks.......

I don’t love the jacket; and I don’t hate it, but I’ve never been able to throw it away. Someone somewhere once said, “Be careful what you do when young, for you are stuck with it for the rest of your life.” That rough jacket and I are bound together forever with bands stronger than iron and steel. Twice a year, Veterans Day and Memorial Day, I pull it off the closet hanger, pin on my meager two rows of ribbons, put it and my VFW hat on, and march in a parade, or stand an Honor Guard. I am not a “professional veteran,” and I don’t know why – twice a year – I still wear the damn thing.

But I think it’s because I yet hear in my heart their youthful voices of nearly a half century ago, coming to me out of the murky ether of years and distance, laughing and yelling in the morning twilight between restless sleep and fretful wakefulness.

“You dinky-dao numbah ten mutha-fuh......!”
“What the hell are they gonna do, draft us and send us to Vietnam?”
“It don’t mean a thing, troop, it don’t mean a thing.....”
“When I get on that freedom bird, man, when I get on that old bird......”
“Back in the world, man, back in the world.....”

Yes, I can still hear their young voices, some long dead now and forever silent except in the dark orchestra pit of my mind... I also hear the thunderous beat of 58,000 pairs of combat boots marching between the dream only worlds, never to rest, never to stop, and, most importantly, never to matter.... and never to be banished from the desolate, empty parade ground of my soul. I only knew three of them personally, one well and the other two briefly, but because of them I am bound forever to that cursed ghost army, the American dead of Vietnam. I cannot ever leave them; I can never quite catch up with them; I am never of them or free of them.... It’s like I got somehow separated from them and can never get back....I will never be with them; and yet I will never be without them.

And the quick hot tears come again as they always do when I first run my hand over the jacket, over the peeling, flaking rubber and the moldy silk. “I’m sorry,” I mumble to an benevolent, unlistening universe, “I am so sorry.....”

Friday, October 23, 2009

Magic Chariot






The motorcycle has been many things during the century of its development: cheap transportation for the masses, military vehicle, sporting vehicle, image builder, and for some, like my wife and I, the motorcycle has been a pure life-enhancing machine.

When Red and I first got together in 1991, I had already gone through a mid-career divorce and had nothing but a job and an ‘87 Honda Magna to show for it. As a low-paid public school employee, I was not going to have much of anything else very soon, either.... I had two and a half months vacation every summer, but no money to spare – absolutely none.

As we sat facing each other on the only two living room chairs I owned (thrift shop, $5), in the tiny house ($37,500) that I had somehow managed to purchase with the help of a sympathetic -- maybe even pitying -- bank manager, I looked at Red and said, “Aw, the hell with it, wanna ride to Texas and get married? I got a brother down there.....”

She grinned and said. “Sure, why not?”

Several days later, I looked up at her grinning face from the pile of newly purchased camping gear scattered around me and said, “ I can’t strap enough of this crap on the Magna to make it work!”

“Maybe we need another kind of bike,” she speculated.

So we went down to Ellensburg Honda “just to look” and there found our first Goldwing, a battered and beaten ‘81 Interstate with many, many miles on its clock. The handwritten sticker read $2495. “This damn thing will barely get us out of town,” I said.

“This baby is barely broken in, “ gushed the hot-eyed salesman, his glance, incidentally, roving all over Red. “These babies run for ever.... change the oil, change the timing belts.... they just run forever.”

I looked at Red. “Let’s give it a go,” I said. “If we head for Texas and the bike coughs it up, we’ll part it out and take a bus home!”

The bike made it to Texas, and then to Alaska, and then back and forth across the states four or five times. We saw the California coast, the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Canadian Maritimes, the whole spine of the Rocky Mountains...... we rode in awe-inspiring thunderstorms, in mountain snows, in desert heat so fierce it melted the adhesive holding on our boot soles. We were able to meet with Maine Lobsterman, Texas Ranchers, New Orleans Blues Musicians, Alaska Fisherman and Iowa Corn Farmers. We camped in nearly all the states, on the shores of both oceans, and on mountains so high and cold we would shiver in our precious sleeping bags, and often had to take our butane camping stove in to bed with us so it would operate in the morning. We saw bear, deer, elk, moose, buffalo, snakes, soaring hawks, and giant pelicans flying in formations of military-type precision from the saddle of our old and faithful bike. When my son was old enough, we bolted on an second-hand sidecar and took him with us. When we ran out of U.S. roads, we started looking overseas, and spent a wondrous summer touring the Swiss Alps on a rented scooter -- and then, eight years later when we could afford it again, spent another glorious summer touring the Dolomites of Northern Italy.

That battered old bike carried us more than 160,000 miles. And when I did have to part it out for real, we bought another one and kept on going, and we had nearly 80,000 miles on it before we wrecked it against the side of a deer. We promptly took the insurance money and bought another. And these low budget bikes have taught us an essential truth: the quality of one’s life depends not upon money, or net worth, or anything else other than the joy of simple existence, a loving partner, freedom, good friends, and the crisp, achingly lovely mornings on the road. The day we bought our old Wing is the day we were blessed, the day we were reborn.

We still live in that $37,500 house, but it’s now paid off and we have built a wing on to it, and we love every board, every nail, every stick of furniture in it..... That small house became our Palace of Joy, and the bike our Magic Chariot. The bike taught us how to live small, to use and love what we had, and not to pine for what we had not... We don’t live on a hill, and we don’t have a view, but we’ve seen things together most people never will. The bike, in a sense, salvaged the quality in our lives, and opened up a world of love and enchantment and adventure to us. Even after one serious accident, my wife still rides with me, whispering words to me over our intercom that only we can hear, and my son rides his own bike on his own roads. Outside of my wife and son, our family and our friends, my motorcycle has been the most quality-producing thing in my life. I will never stop riding a motorcycle, never...

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Prairie Lunch Stop


Sometimes, when Red and I are out on the prairie, we'll stop at some greasy spoon and walk in, helmets dangling from sodden gloves, rain still streaming from our jackets, and most of the people inside will look away, and will try not to notice us.......will try to get back to where they were before we arrived.... before we came in, we two all free and wet and alive...... But, also, sometimes... I'll look across the tense dining room, and some old boy will slowly raise his head from his Senior Special bowl of soup. He'll look out the foggy window at our loaded bike, at my smiling partner, and the fire will begin to rise again in his rheumy eyes, and he will begin to nod to us.... At first barely perceptively, and then with increasing vigor, and we can see him sitting straighter, and breathing faster... calling on us to talk to him, to notice him and this joy rising in him like something long dead but rediscovered...... and so we do."G'day, Sir!" I'll say, sitting as close to him as possible. "Kinda wet out there!"And then he and maybe another one or two old boys, will come and talk to us. Really talk to us. They will speak of the bikes they had after the war, the Harleys, the Indians, the BSA Goldstars....the saddlebags of Mexican tooled leather, the shaved and ported cylinder heads, the Great Hillclimbs, the Saturday night flat track racing...."I loved that damned BSA! Loved it so much I was always afraid of it!"And they will talk of touring from sea to sea, from border to border, when the roads were all lumpy, coated with gravel and nearly impassable, and when the sleeping bags were always wet and cold, their girls' mothers always so terrified of the young them and their bikes. They speak of great bonfires on prairies and in woodlands, and of the cheap beer, and of the joy of being young and free, free from war and alive .... and the misery now of having lost it all. And I listen to them with all my heart, for I am them, and they me. And when we finally leave, waving to those who still have the fire, those with eyes still gleaming, we feel alive and reborn......and blessed. And the prairie calls to us anew...."Ride, ride, my children. It will not be forever, ride, ride.... my laughing children. Ride!"

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Stella And The Motorcycle


Stella noticed him almost at once. On the crest of the hill between her house and Kolb’s cornfield, there first appeared a bobbing head, and then a round headlight. It was a man pushing a motorcycle. As she switched off her morning radio show and wiped her hands dry on her apron, the man with the motorcycle took a respite on the top of the hill, leaning against the bike, his labored breathing obvious even from Stella’s kitchen window. Outside, the Iowa midday sun beat down ferociously, and even from the window she could see that the man’s white tee shirt was dark with sweat.

After a moment, the man ran a few steps pushing his machine, and then jumped aboard, coasting silently downhill, all the way down into a deep pool of shade cast by the giant oak tree outside of Stella’s front fence. He stopped the bike, got off, swung down the center stand, and heaved the machine up with obvious relief. He then stepped away to a roadside ditch, where he sat down, his sun browned arms draped over his knees. After a moment he hung down his head, his hair rich and dark and glossy.

Stella stood for a moment, and then from the icebox removed a pitcher of fresh lemonade and took down a glass from the cupboard. She walked to her screen door, hesitated, and then pushed it open.

“G’mawning,” she sang out, coming down the flag-stoned walk, and pushing open the front gate with a hip. “You’ve got trouble?”

The man raised his head and stared at her. He was younger than she thought, about her age actually, with deep-set blue eyes, and high cheekbones. She was suddenly conscious of her faded dress, her everyday apron, her hair wrapped in a tight bun.

He stared openly at her for a moment, and then said, laughing, “yeah... a little trouble, maybe... She died dead under me just before the lip of that hill.... just shy enough of it that I had to jump off and push! Didn’t think I’d get her to the top without fallin’ it over, but I did. Saw your nice shade tree here and jus’ couldn’t resist.... hope you don’t mind?”

“No, of course not. Can you fix it, you think,” she asked as she poured the glass full and handed it to him.

The man laughed. “Hope so! It’s a long walk to Cedar Rapids! I always have fixed her before.... it’s always kinda been ‘ride and fix, ride and fix, and then fix and ride’ some more on this ol’ thing!” He laughed again as he accepted the glass. He raised the glass in salute to her. “I thank you, ma’am,” he said. “Durned hot day!” He then drained the glass in steady, eager swallows. “Mmm, good,” he said. “Thank you again,” and he extended it toward her.

She didn’t take it, but stepped forward and refilled it.

“Well, “ she said. “If you need anything, tools or such, I’ll do the best for you.” She turned and looked at the fields behind her house, shading her eyes with her hands. “My husband, Henry, is out on the tractor. He’s pretty good workin’ with tractors, and he’ll be comin’ in soon..... he could help you if you like.....”

The man stared at her again, his blue eyes locked on her face. He stared just a moment longer than she was used to, and she was aware of her hand holding the half-empty pitcher beginning to shake. Her eyes fell toward the ground.

The man laughed, and pulled free an old leather jacket tied behind the bike’s saddle. He went down on one knee and spread the jacket at the side of the engine. “Well, you’re most kind, but I think I can get it! Only two things to look for...... spark and fuel. It’s gotta be one or the other, no spark or no fuel! I learned that as a dispatch rider in the army...... spark or fuel, one or th’ other!”

Her eyes raised up to him. “You were a soldier,” she murmured. “In the war?”
He didn’t look at her. “Yes.”
“You were in France,” she asked, still murmuring.
“Yes.”
“My cousin’s husband was in France,” she said. “Artillery.”
He knodded, but didn’t say anything. He unwrapped a piece of oilcloth. Inside were a score of tools, shiny with oil and use, and he laid them out side by side on the leather jacket. For some reason, she liked how he handled the tools, gently, with long fingers, the nails rimmed with grease.

“Well,” she said. “If there’s anything we can do..... Henry and I.... please come up and knock.”

The man, his hands already deep in the engine, turned his head and smiled up at her, his teeth as clean and white as pearls. She was aware of a unbidden, sharp intake of her breath, and she turned in confusion and walked toward the house.

“I’ll remember your offer of help, sure... “ said the man behind her. “Thank you so much.”

Stella stood in front of the mirror the cool gloom of her bedroom in the old house, her hands pressed to her burning cheeks. “Oh, Lord.... please,” she murmured. And then, she pulled the pins from her hair, and the thick tresses fell and spilled over her slender shoulders like a silk shaw... She sat, and pulled a soft brush through her hair, fifty times on each side. Standing and reaching behind her, she unzipped her old dress and let it fall down around her ankles and stepped out of it. Outside, the motorcycle engine barked... and then barked again.... She held her breath. And then the engine barked again, and ran unsteadily for several seconds, and died. She let out her breath, and went to the open closet. Taking down her new dress, she hurriedly put it on, smoothing it in front, smoothing it over her flat stomach and rounded hips.

Outside, the engine barked again, and again died away.....

Stella went to her kitchen. She took from the icebox a plate of cold ham and a large round of cheddar cheese. She quickly made two sandwiches on homemade bread, and pulled another pitcher from the box, tea this time. She took an ice pick from a hook on the wall and chipped shards from the block ice into two glasses.

She balanced it all on an old tray and carried it outside. He was standing by the motorcycle, an oily part in his hand, jabbing gently at it with a piece of bent wire.

“You must be hungry.... and I’ve made us sandwiches. Not much, but.....” She smiled at him.

“It’ll do just fine, and I thank you..... huh......?”

“Stella,” she replied softly. “Stella Worthington.”

“Well,” he said softly. “Thank you....I’m Dan O’Reilly..... I can pay a little.”

“No need.....well, what is it, Dan? Fuel or spark?”

He laughed as he picked up a sandwich with just his fingertips. “Durned if I know! I thought the carburetor was plugged up with dirt or somethin,’ but I can’t get her clear........at least not yet, I can’t!”

He had pulled from somewhere off the bike an old army hat, with a wide brim and a crown girded by a faded blue cord The hat suited his sharpish face, but it cast his blue eyes in deep shadow.

“Tell me,” she said softly, almost whispering. “What was France like?”

He was silent long enough for her to believe that he wasn’t going to answer, but then he said, “France? The country? Beautiful, with big stone churches and good-farmed fields.... very lovely, in fact. They have seen so much there, they know so much more than we....”

He drank some tea and then turned to stare at her, his eyes burning into her even under the shadow of the hat brim. “If it’s about the war you are asking, well..... I’ll beg your pardon and forgo that... I won’t talk about it, and you shouldn’t ask. That war was like all wars before and those to come... People dying and nobody knowin’ why..... It was an abomination. An unanswerable abomination... an unanswerable horror.....”

Scarcely daring to breathe, she whispered, “I’m sorry....”

He pushed the hat brim up and smiled at her, deep lines at his eyes crinkling, lines she hadn’t noticed before. “Not your fault, Stella. It’s a normal question.... the problem is that there ain’t any normal answers...... it’s a misery. And I ain’t gonna talk about it....no use....”

After awhile she left him, and went inside and stretched out upon her bed, the sun lowering behind the drawn shades. The daily heat had reached a zenith, and her skin felt inflamed, her dress damp. Insects thudded against the bedroom window. Stella felt again her great sorrow, and she almost wept, but slept instead.

She awoke suddenly in the late afternoon, and outside the machine was running again – but strong and steady now, with a regular thumping rhythm. She rose and ran to the kitchen, where she wet a cloth and held it against her eyes. She then ran outside and down the front walk.

“You did it!”

Dan smiled at her. The hat was gone, and a pair of leather rimmed glass goggles hung around his neck. “Yeah...it was the carb,sure.... intake tube plugged up good! I finally blew it out.”

She stared up at him. “Are you from around here, Dan....from Iowa?”

He shrugged into the leather jacket. “Yes, ma’am .... from around Dubuque.” He looked around at the fields surrounding them. “Raised on a farm...very much like this one... corn and cows!”

She waited a moment, and then said, “and do you live there now?”

He pulled on a pair of long gloves. “Tried to.... after France....but it wasn’t no good. Couldn’t sleep there, anymore.” He stared toward a lowering sun. “Funny, before the army, I never thought I could leave Iowa...but now I don’t think I can ever stay.”

She held her breath.

He looked at her and smiled, and said. “Gonna, gotta, keep on going.... to the Rocky Mountains, maybe even to California.....to the Pacific Ocean! Been across the Atlantic, maybe find a boat....”

She couldn’t speak

“Stella,” he spoke very softly. “Would you like to go? Come with me? To see snowy mountains higher than the sky, and then to see what’s past them.....?”

Her eyes swam with tears, and she spun and ran up the walk.....

“Stella......,” he said behind her.....

She ran to her bedroom, and picked up the wrinkled and torn newspaper notice of Henry’s funeral service from the dresser, and threw herself upon the big empty bed, her face buried deep in the pillow, the paper clutched to her chest. Outside the motorcycle engine changed tone, and then grew steadily fainter as he rode away. She could hear the rhythmic beat of his motorcycle for a long time, until it faded among the cornfields in the darkening evening, and then the great sorrow came upon her and she wept her endless tears. The sorrow was as vast, as deep, as the heaving of a great dark ocean sea, always oncoming to the very end of time, sweeping all before it.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

An Incident In The UP





My first awareness was of spitting into gravel inches from my face, and being rather smug that there wasn’t any blood in it. I pushed myself up to my knees, noticing that one of my gloves was torn and full of blood. I pulled it off, and shook my hand trying to fling the blood away. A few yards from me my wife wept softly, the bones of her left forearm broken and exposed.

“That’s not good,” I said, to no one in particular. “That’s not good at all.”

A young man in a Michigan State Police uniform knelt in front of me.

“Sir, where were you going? Where were you headed today?”

I looked into his face, and started grinning.....I couldn’t help it.

“Damned if I know,” I said. “I know I should know, but I don’t.....what happened?”

He jotted something in a small leather-covered notebook, nodded, and looked back at me.

“Sir, where did you spend last night?”

I kept grinning at him. “You got me there, too...... can you spell concussion? What happened?”

“You hit a deer, sir. Medical help is on the way.... I notice that you have a concealed weapons permit in your wallet. Were you carrying a weapon today, sir?”

“Naw,” I said, chuckling at the officer. “Don’t carry it when we go up to Canada. They get all nervous up at the border, you know.... and we’re going there later. I do have a twelve gauge shotgun, though, half in each saddlebag. Winchester Model 12.....breaks in half real good.....You want me to get it? What happened?”

The officer put his hand on my shoulder. “No. We’ll take care of it. Lie easy now, help is coming.”

“Hey,” I said. “That’s my wife there, she’s hurt bad.....let’s put her in your car and take her to the hospital!”

I started to rise to my feet, but a deep burning ache began in my side, and then it got worse and didn’t go away.

“Ah, Jesus....!” I moaned.

The young officer pushed me down, and his voice was urgent now, more commanding.

“Sir... lie still! You were a collision with a deer, and both you and your wife are seriously injured. Ambulances are coming, you can hear them now. Hear them?”

I looked into his face, and grinned again. I just couldn’t help it.

“East Duluth,” I said triumphantly.

He looked perplexed. “What? What did you just say?”

“East Duluth....that’s where we were last night.... motel.....east Duluth.....got one right, huh? What happened”

He smiled at me, I think, and rested his hand on my shoulder again.

“Good, that’s real good. Be still now, they are just pulling up.”

I sank down on my thighs and ankles again, and looked up at the fair weather clouds racing across the Michigan skies, listening to my wife’s gentle weeping and to the oncoming sirens.

An Encounter




A half dozen years ago, Red and I ran up the Mormon Trail alongside the Platte River on our Goldwing, and then across the Nebraska Sandhills to Fort Robinson, a frontier military post frozen in time, and the place where the Sioux warrior Crazy Horse was bayoneted to death by the U.S. Army a hundred twenty years ago.

We camped 50 meters from a memorial marking the exact spot. The officer’s quarters of the old fort, the sutler’s store, and the guardhouse were still standing, just east of the silent, ghost-filled parade ground surrounded by the great cottonwood trees that had been planted as saplings when Crazy Horse yet lived.

We ate supper heated on a camp stove while towering thunderclouds warned of rain, and the cottonwood leaves shivered violently in an uneasy evening wind. Later, the sky cleared and the night was shot through with stars and meteors. I lay in the hot silence and thought of the conflict of civilizations unevenly powerful, and the pathos and tragedy of those men caught between them.

In the morning, we packed up and rolled out of the fort, back on smooth, two-laned macadam to the small town of Chadron, Nebraska, where many of the descendants of Crazy Horse’s people yet live. We filled our tank at a convenience store/ service station, and, while Red used the facilities, I checked the pressure in the tires and polished the windscreen with aerosol furniture wax..

Hearing footsteps I turned and smiled, but instead of Red, before me stood a tall young American Indian in a straw cowboy hat and faded jeans with a half case of beer under his arm. He stared at me, his eyes red and on fire, spittle on his lips, his breath reeking of alcohol.

“Howya doin,” I said.

“Fuck,” he replied.
.
He stared at me a moment more, worked his lower jaw, bent his head, and spat exactly between
my boots. Again, he stared into my eyes.

I said nothing.

After a moment, he turned and walked to a battered pickup. He opened the door, threw in his beer, got in... and drove away without another glance.

Red came up, concerned. “Are you okay,” she asked. “Is anything wrong?”

“Nothing that I can do anything about,” I replied.

We mounted the Wing, and swung away from the store heading west again.

Monday, October 19, 2009

A Lesson In Ownership









In 1992, Red and I and my six year old son, Josh, headed up the rainy Alaska Highway on an 81' Goldwing Interstate (for which we’d paid the grand sum of $2495) bolted to a used Motorvation sidecar ($2200). By the time we’d reached Stone Mountain Provincial Park, we’d figured out the handling of the rig, and had settled on the most efficient packing plan. We were camping all the way, and were having an hilarious time. We had learned how to power slide through gravelly corners and how to coast across slippery construction mud. We'd learned how to lift the wheel, and Josh, at will, and how to lean over the car's wheel to keep it down when we wanted.... We were wet, filthly, happy, and excited. Instinctively, we knew that this was the most important trip we had ever taken.

Somewhere near Muncho Lake, we passed a Harley rider alongside the road, a rider with such a look of distress on his lean face that we slowed, stopped, and turned around to see if we could help. We rumbled and clattered to a stop near his machine, a beautiful, custom-painted Harley Big Twin.

“Hey! Do you have a problem? Can we help?” I grinned at the man.

“Hell, yes, I got a problem! Goddamn this road..... worst road I ever been on!" The man absolutely snarled as he spoke, and he spat into the gravel at his feet at the end of every sentence.

“Bad time, huh?” I asked, already wishing we hadn’t stopped.

“Bad time? I’ve had a hundred paint chips in the last two days! They should warn people about this road! Look at that paint! I got $27,000 into this bike and $5000 of it is paint! Look at the chips in it!”

I wasn’t sure what to say, and my wife and child were uncharacteristically silent, staring at the fellow like he was from another planet.

“Friggin place,” he muttered. “I’m trying to find a truck with an empty trailer to haul me and my bike outa here! This is no place for a quality machine!”

I looked around at the high granite peaks, the immense forests, the eagles riding high on mountain currents. “Kinda nice up here, though, “ I ventured, without much hope.

“Screw that,” he yelled. “I just want gone!”

Seeing that there was absolutely nothing we could do for the fellow, we waved goodbye and continued on. Later in the day, we stopped for gas and a rest.

“What was the matter with that man, Daddy?” My son asked. “He was mad, huh?”

“Yeah, he was pretty unhappy.”

“He had a nice bike, though........”

“Yeah, almost too nice,” I replied.

“What’s that mean, Dad?”

I reached out and ruffled his hair, and tugged at one of his elf-like ears.

“Someday, when you’re a little older, we’ll have a conversation about how sometimes you don’t own things, sometimes they own you...... and when that happens, you are almost always unhappy.”

He pondered that for a moment. “Our sidecar bike don’t own us, huh? We own it – and so we are happy?”

I smiled at him. “That’s right, my brilliant son, we own it. It doesn’t own us, and happy we are!”

Later that night, we built a huge fire in a campground and roasted weiners and marshmallows, laughing all the while; while all around us loomed silent granite peaks and the darkening, age-old evergreen trees.

Sioux Falls













At Sioux Falls, South Dakota, there is a nice KOA campground with a long grassy section catering to bikers. Red and I, anxious to be out on the Great Plains, were running late one day and pulled in after dark. There were already five or six tents up, and a great, blazing log fire in a common pit. We put up our tent, smoothed out our bags, ate a dinner of warmed up beans and franks, and then wandered over to the fire – to get us some of that cherished biker camaraderie..... I counted two Wings, three Harleys, a Kawi Vulcan, and even two exotic-looking Guzzis with weathered soft luggage. A half-dozen riders were standing around the fire, drinking bottled beer and talking and laughing softly. They nodded to us and we took our place in the ring.

A little while later, a nice-looking early Chevy Corvette, Pearl Yellow, glistening with wax, rumbled sweetly into a car camping site across the road. The occupant, dressed in filthy jeans, a sleeveless denim vest with a patch, and a wallet with a chain, got out and walked toward us.

“Hi y’all! Howse the two-wheeled crowd tonight?” He grinned at us, his grey pony-tail bouncing, a half-empty pint of whiskey clutched in a greasy hand. “Nice day for a ride, huh,” he asked, tipping the bottle back.

“Yup,” one of the Harley boys said. He nodded at the Corvette. “Nice Wheels.”

“Ain’t they, tho, bro,” laughed Pony Tail. “Mine...my baby. Been workin’ on the damn thing for years..... takin’ it to the Black Hills Corvette Rally in Rapid City this weekend.” He squatted on his heels, and then looked up at us and grinned. “Figure on gettin’ me one of them cute little trophies!”

We all nodded our heads like bobbleheads on a shelf.

“I prefer dearly the bike, however....,” he said. “ Know what I’m sayin’? Love bikes. Love ridin’.....Got me a old shovelhead....if ya like my Corvette, y’all oughta see my Harley Shovelhead! Twenty-five coats of hand-rubbed lacquer!” He grinned at Red. “Like lookin’ into yore lady’s eyes!”

The Kawi rider looked at Pony Tail.

“Ya goin’ to Sturgis this year?”

Pony Tail’s face grew solemn. He took a long pull at his diminished pint, swallowed noisly, and then spat into the fire.

“Naw....fuck it! Ain’t ever going there again!”

“Why not, “ I asked.

Pony Tail looked up at me for a moment, and spat again into the fire.

“Ain’t no good there no more..... last year, my brother an’ me show up. Rode all the way in from Milwaukee.... just popped open our first beers and sittin’on the scooters......checkin’ out the street...ya know what I’m sayin’?”.”

He fell silent for a moment, while Kawi rider threw a new log on the fire and kicked at it with his boot. Sparks showered out into the night.

“Anyhow... there we sit, the brother an’ me, and this humungous damn motorhome pulls up. Brand new...that sucker must a’ been 40' long! But it don’t bother me none, I seen that before......”

He took another pull on his bottle, finished it, and dropped it into the grass.

“Then these two dudes come out in matching leathers! But that don’t bother me, I seen that, too...”

He grimaced at the fire.

“Then these two fools let down a ramp at the back, and backpedal down two new white Heritage Springers! Both white! Both brand new! Goddamn rubber’s still got the stickers on ‘em! But that didn’t bother me none, I seen it before..........!”

He fell silent again. For a long time. Finally, one of the Guzzi riders asked him in accented English, “well, what finally did bother you?”

The Pony Tail stood, angry.... he kicked his empty bottle into the flames.

“What bothered me was when one of them little posers went back in and came out with a tent and sleeping bag! A fuckin’ tent and sleeping bag that he commenced to tie on the back of his Springer! That bothered me! I ain’t never seen that before!”

The prairie wind moaned, picked up, and pushed the fire over in another direction.. Sparks again danced on the wind, and vanished in the night.

“And so I went up to the little pussy and I asked him, ‘Hey! You ever sleep in that bag?’ And he said, ‘no,’ and then I said, ‘Hey! You ever pitched that tent?’ and he said, ‘no.......’ “

The Pony Tail raised his arms to shoulder level, palms to the sky.

“And so then I said, ‘so what in the fuck are you doin’ that for’...... and the dude looked me right in the eye and said, ‘for the look!’”

The Kawi rider snorted, but the rest of us stood silent, staring into the dancing flames.

The Pony Tail sighed. “Fuckin’ Sturgis..... ruined.....ya hear what I’m saying?” He looked at us all in turn, and we nodded. “Some fuckin’ things...well.... some fuckin’ things they should just leave alone. Damned if they shouldn’t just leave things alone.”

The fire danced at our feet, and above our heads streaked a falling star

The Squid

"Hello, Squid," I said, replacing the nozzle on the fuel pump.

The boy, clad in baggy shorts, a muscle shirt, and untied sneakers, looked up from his old Suzuki GS500. His bike had raw scratches on the tank, and his muffler was flattened along its entire length.

"Wha's up," he mumbled.

"Nice day for a ride, hey?"

"Ummm ."

"Your GS running well," I asked.

"Yup..... new rubber......faster 'n it looks......."

"I believe it, " I said and walked inside.

I handed the lady my card and pointed at the boy at the pump.

"I'll get his, too."

After she had rung the sales, I used the men’s room, and came out to find the boy waiting for me. He leaned against his bike, dangling an old, badly painted plastic helmet. He stared at me.

"Why'd you do that," he asked.

"Do what?"

"Pay for my gas........" He shuffled his sneakers uncomfortably.

I looked away up at the faint blue line of the Rockies, and then back at him.

"Oh, a long time ago," I said softly. "I ran a Honda 305 twin..... used to go hungry and smokeless and beerless trying to find money for gas..... I don't have to do that, now.... no big thing...... more for me than you....just thought I'd help some."

Red came out of her restroom and walked toward us, smiling.

Seeing her coming, the boy noticeably relaxed and pulled on his helmet with one smooth motion. He held the shield up for a moment, and then said, "ummm......well....... thanks."

"No problem," I said. "Keep your rubber down."

He slammed the shield home, gunned up the old bike, and left us with a smooth accelerating turn out unto the highway.

As Red got ready to climb aboard, I looked up again at the Rocky Mountains -- and at all the memories behind them.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

The Appaloosas and The Harley

“Dammit!”

The boy, his fingers stiff and numb with morning cold, had dropped the heavy pliers into the crusted snow beneath the wire fence. As he stooped to retrieve them, his father’s two big, rough hands came from nowhere and shoved him hard against the fence post and wire.

“Gawdammit, boy! You ain’t even gonna earn your pancakes this mornin’, are you?”

Cursing, the man clawed through the dirty snow with long, powerful fingers, searching for the tool.. “Dam’ worthless, dam’ worthless you are.... just like your mother!”

The boy shivering, stood aside, and put his numb hands under his armpits. He stamped his cold feet in the snow..

“She wasn’t worthless! You say that, you say that all the time, but she wasn’t worthless.”

His father stood up – stood straight, tall and thin in a dirty plaid wool jacket and sour-smelling overalls. He looked at the boy curiously, and the blow, when it happened, came swinging up from his hip almost lazily, gracefully, but with great power and strength – and directly against the boy’s nose.

“Gahhh.......”

The boy staggered back, and then bent double at the waist, spitting, the pain coming in a dark wave, the blood draining down almost instantly -- splashing against the snow, bright red and steaming. The boy could taste it in the back of his throat. He was familiar with the taste.

“Your ma was whatever I say she was, and you’ll listen, by Gawd...... She was worthless when I met her, she was worthless all the while, and she was worthless when she died! Say it now....!”

The boy swallowed. “Worthless.....,” he whispered.

“Yeah... you betcha.... now get out some hay out for these damned cows........”

The boy went into the barn, where he tipped his head back and pinched his nostrils until the bleeding stopped. He washed blood from his face and hands with cold water from a bucket. He took a pitchfork down from pegs on a wall, and carried forkfuls of the sweet-smelling dry hay to the fence, and dumped it over to the waiting lifestock. His father had disappeared.

While the cows nosed and chewed at the hay, the boy leaned against the pitchfork and looked up at the Wallowa Mountains circling his father’s ranch. The peaks were pearl white against a blue sky, a gleaming pearl white with the last snowfall of the season. Spring was close, and every morning when the boy crawled from his blankets he could hear more and more sweet birdsong outside his window.

He slapped a cow on it’s warm, trembling shoulder and spoke to it.

“He wouldn’t have dared say that about her when the old ones lived.... Joseph and Looking Glass and Ollokot and White Bird.... those old ones still wearing the Blanket....they would have come riding down from them white hills up there, riding down on them tough Appaloosas of theirs... come down here, and killed him!. The non-Christian people would have stripped his clothes off, sliced him.... gutted him like a fish... burnt him on a fire.....and then taken her away with them, and me, too...... up and away on them tough Appaloosas.” He smiled at the cow, and then went to put the pitchfork away.

His father came into the barn before he could leave.

I’m taking the Ford truck over to Enterprise this mornin,’ because the old man at Johnson’s thinks he can fix the transmission......somethin’ I doubt.... While I’m gone, try and not be as worthless as usual. Finish wirin’ up that fence, and then spade the muck outa the west ditch.... get some water goin’ down it...... I wanta see somethin’ done when I get back!”

The boy stood against the wall, silent.....

“You hear me, boy?”

“Yeah....”

“Then say something!”

“I’m to wire the fence. Clean out the ditch.....”

“Yessir.” His father opened a tool drawer, and brought out a bottle of clear liquid. He tilted it up and swallowed twice. He smacked his lips as he replaced the cap, and then he looked at the boy.

“Don’t even think about it! I know how much is in it.....couldn’t never keep it away from your ma, though......worthless drunk that she was. Go to work now! Oh, yeah.... tomorrow we butcher your steer.”

The boy stood silent and tense

“But I wanna sell it......”

His father laughed, the sound harsh in the musty, sweet-smelling barn.

“Sell it! Yeah, in a pig’s eye! You raised it here, and we’ll eat it here..... you got nothin’ but what this place gives you, and you should never forget that..”

He stared at the boy a minute, and then walked out of the barn. The boy followed, and walked to the fence. He picked the pliers and hog rings from the top of the post, and began threading and crimping the rings through the fence wire wrapped around the post. After a moment, his father drove a rusty Ford truck around the corner of the barn and then down the dirt road that led to the farm and ranch town of Enterprise, Oregon. As he drove, his father stared straight ahead. He didn’t look at the boy.

The boy stood silent for a moment after the truck had disappeared from his sight.

“Son of a bitch.”

He gripped the pliers and with a running start threw them high and hard out into a field of snow and mud.......

“Find the damn things now, will ya?”

He broke into a dead run toward the house, and then bounded up on the porch, slamming open the front door, and going up the stairway in long bounds. He tore some shirts and underwear from a drawer and threw them on his bed. Rummaging deep in a closet, he found a canvas Boy Scout rucksack, and stuffed his clothes into it. From under his pillow he carefully pulled his most cherished possession, a long hunting knife he had made from an old file in a school shop project. The handle was of antler horn from the first deer he had killed with his friend Homer's old 30-40 Krag rifle. The sheath casing for the knife he had sewn of buckskin from the same deer He looked around once, removed a picture of his mother from a dresser, and placed it carefully with the knife deep in the rucksack, and then left his bedroom....forever.

He headed due west, in a loping, easy run, toward a series of timbered ridges. After a half hour, he stood panting on the last of the ridges, looking down at a clearing -- looking down at a neatly built cabin of pale peeled logs with smoke rising steadily from a river rock chimney. The boy loped toward the cabin, and pulled up just at the porch.

“Homer,” he called. “You in there?”

He waited a half minute, his breath slowing, the pulse in his temple quieting.

“Homer?”

The door opened and a tall elderly man wearing wire frame spectacles came out on the porch. He smiled at the boy. He limped when he walked.

“You again.....What, you just wanna go look at it again? You gonna wear it out with your eyeballs before it’s yours?”

“No,” replied the boy. “I’ll never own it.....I’ll never work enough here to earn it. He hit me again. And when he does it again, I’ll kill him. I’ll cut his throat with my knife.”

The old man’s shoulders seemed to collapse against his chest.

“Aw, hell...... just.....aw, hell..... C’mon in here and have some coffee.”

Later, sitting at a pine table, the elderly man rubbed his head with a nervous hand and then picked up an enameled cup of steaming coffee. The boy cradled his cup with shaking hands.

“Was it bad? Whada’ he hit you for this time?”

“Bad enough,” said the boy. “He hit me because I dropped some pliers into the snow....”

“He hit you because you dropped some pliers? Jesus.....!”

“He also called my mom, “worthless,” and I told him she wasn’t...... He’s always saying that... and I’m not gonna hear it no more....!”

“Aww, damn,” said Homer.

“Why’d she ever marry him, Homer.....and why does he hate me, his own blood?”

Homer stood and moved to a window, where he stood sipping his coffee. After a moment, he turned and faced the boy.

“I gotta tell you somethin,’ sport..... should’ve done it a long time ago, should a’ done it last summer, maybe... and maybe now’s the time. My fault it ain’t be done yet.”

The boy sat still, his hands moving gently on the smooth cup.

Homer limped to the table and set his cup down. “He don’t hate his own blood..... ‘cause you ain’t his blood. He ain’t your real father....”

The boy leaped to his feet, his cup spilling and clattering across the pine board floor.

“What the hell! What.......?”

“Easy, son, easy.... your real father was named Harold Gough.... but everybody called him, ‘Mike.’ He was a real good man, real good..... but he was a U.S. Marine that went and got himself killed off in Korea.”

The boy sank down cross-legged on the floor. He rocked back and forth on his buttocks, and in the darkness of his mind he saw somehow a splash of dancing campfire sparks, and smelled wet elkskin, and heard the shrill piping of eagle bone whistles and the throb of drums.

“Your mom went over to Idaho once, for a tribal gathering, and she met your dad in Spokane, he worked at an ice-skating rink there. At Natatorium park.”

Homer was rubbing his head again.

“Nobody could keep ‘em apart after that.... and what a picture they were! Your mom was about nineteen, your dad quite a few years older..... both wild and free and beautiful.... Damn, but they loved each other!”

Homer looked at him. The boy again saw the flash of sparks, and heard an ancient song, a hunting song, a song he had never heard before.

“You okay, son?”

The boy didn’t answer.

“She talked him into comin’ here, the Old Homeland of her people, and they moved into a house near Wallowa Lake, and he went to work in the sawmill. But he had been in the Pacific War, and they called him up again for that Korean thing, where he proceeded to get himself killed.”

The boy stood, and began removing things from his rucksack.

“Your mom just fell apart then, no Mike and you being just a little baby... she started drinking way too much. Had no way of raisin’ you, no way of makin’ enough to raise a boy... so she met your "stepdad" Morrison and then married him. Felt it was the best way for you, I guess.....”

“And he never told me!”

“No, I guess he did not. I think he blamed you after she died, kind of resented you, I guess..... what are you doing?”

The boy had unsheathed his knife, and was stropping the hard steel blade against the smooth leather of his boot.

“I’m gonna go back there and cut his throat to the bone.”

“Aw, hell.....,” said Homer. He took a deep breath. “Son, you cain’t go and do that now, not now and not ever. They’ll catch you sure, and you’ll hang for it, even as young as you are.”

The boy tested his knife on the ball of his thumb, staring at the thin line of crimson that materialized there.

Homer stared at him. “Ya just cain’t do it.... you ain’t big enough, or smart enough.... Morrison will kill you in a heartbeat. He’s been tryin’ to have an excuse for sometime now. You ain’t strong enough yet, you’re too young.”

The boy stared up at Homer. “I can’t look at him one more time.... if I do, I’ll sink this in his chest!”

Homer sighed again. “Yeah. I do see that.... come with me, son.” He set his coffee cup down and – limping – led the way out the door. After a moment, the boy followed him outside and across the yard to a old log shed. In the half gloom inside, Homer stopped near a shape covered with canvas.

“Well,” said Homer. “Here she is... time for you to have her now.”

“But I ain’t got it paid off yet,” said the boy. “And I’ll never earn it now... and he’ll never let me have it...ever.”

“Ain’t for him to say,” grunted Homer. “It’s my cycle, mine to keep, sell, or give away. I half- sold it to you already...for your labor ... and now I’m half-giving it to you.” He rubbed his aching hip. “I cain’t ride it ever again, anyway....damn fool horse....”

“But Morrison won’t let me keep it! He’ll sell it off, sure....”

Homer stripped the canvas away, revealing the dull green Harley-Davidson WA 45, an army surplus bike, the outline of the white star still visible on the dull tank.

“No. He ain’t agonna sell it.... because he ain’t agonna see it. You’re gonna ride it away. Tonight.”

Again, the boy heard drumbeats and eagle bone whistles.

“Where?” He whispered. “Where am I to go?”

Homer knelt in front of him. “Your dad has a brother, a fellow named Hal, he works on the tugboats outa Umatilla. You’re gonna get on that motorcycle now and ride to Umatilla, today, and look him up, get in touch with your uncle... he knows about you and he ain’t gonna turn you away. Probably get you a job on the boats.”

Homer reached over and cradled the boy’s chin with a rough, reddened hand. “After you leave, I’ll go to town and use the phone at Stockman’s Café and try and call him... tell him what’s up. But you get on that motorcycle now and leave, and don’t you ever come back...... not on your life.”

The boy sat, staring at his boot tops.

Homer shook his chin gently...... “You follow the river road to Lostine, Wallowa, and then Elgin. Keep on goin’ to La Grande, and then catch the road to Pendleton, Hermiston, and then Umatilla. If you get lost, just ask.... but keep goin’, don’t stop.” He stood up, favoring his leg.
“You got any money,” he asked.

The boy stared at him. “None, “ he said.

“Well, I’ll give you enough for gas and a sandwich. If you don’t get there tonight, pull off into the woods and make a cold camp. Keep off the highway. He ain’t agonna start looking for you until tomorrow morning, I don’t think.. By then you’ll be gone....”

He got up and moved toward the Harley-Davidson. “I’ll start this up. You go and get your pack, drink some of that coffee on the stove, and then take the blankets off the bed.... you might need them tonight. Remember how to start it? Don’t forget to retard the spark before kickin’ it any..."

Homer grinned at the boy. “Forget to retard that spark and you gonna be pulling your boot outa your ass! Go on now.....”

The boy ran to the cabin. He drank some coffee straight from the cooling pot, and then took one blanket off the bed. He rolled it tightly and strapped it under the flap of his pack. He looked around a final time, looked at the only room on earth in which he had always felt welcome... and then ran back to the shed.

Halfway there, he heard the Harley start, a bark, and then a deep rhythmic rumble alive in the gloom. Inside he found Homer standing there with a old sheepskin jacket and a flyer’s leather helmet with goggles.

“These will do you... wearing them, nobody’s gonna recognize you and they will keep you warm. Put them on.”

The boy shrugged into the jacket, spread the leather flaps of the helmet, and pulled it down over his head. Mixed up in the rumble of the Harley, the boy heard again somehow the old songs of his mother’s people, and – for the first time in his life – joy flooded his soul.

Homer held up a folded square of paper and several folded bills. “This is my handwritten permission for you to have this bike. And some cash. I don’t know but I don’t think you’re actually old enough to own it, but with that paper it don’t matter..... the state license is good until fall. We’ll worry about what to do about it then....You go now, ride it good and careful, like I showed you.... and remember, your uncle’s name is Hal Gough, in Umatilla. He’s a good man, trust me...”

Homer went to put the boy’s pack into one of the Harley’s saddlebags. “Wait, Homer,” said the boy. He dug for a moment in the pack and pulled out his sheath knife, and tucked it into the calf of his right boot. The folded paper and money he put deep in the other. He then stood and looked at the old man.......

“Homer.....,” and he started to weep.

“It’s okay, boy, “ mumbled Homer, and he awkwardly patted the boy on the shoulder. “It’s gonna be okay now... all you have to do is get to Umatilla..... it was all building up to this... as natural as rain. Just get to Umatilla.... I’ll see you again.”

The boy wiped tears from his eyes and then pulled down the goggles. Homer stood nodding his head and shouting above the rumbling engine. “Remember, you only got three gears, and 55-60's all you’re gonna get, but that you’ll get for sure.... she’s got aluminum heads and iron barrels, and she’s as good as I could make her. “

The boy through his leg over the leather saddle, and duckwalked the bike backwards out the door. Homer followed wiping his nose with a blue bandana.

The boy yelled, “goodbye Homer, goodbye uncle!” Homer waved one hand but said nothing.

The boy then engaged the clutch, shifted the hand lever to 1st, and the bike began to move away from Homer’s shed... from Homer’s cabin...down the muddy, broken lane to the Enterprise Highway, and, suddenly, the boy was alone.

He had ridden the bike in secret and in Homer's pasture many times last fall, and in minutes he was comfortable, standing high on the pegs to ride over the bumps, and sitting down in the saddle on the smooth stretches. The bike’s engine was reassuringly smooth and the clean wind stung his face. When he came to the Enterprise Highway, he stopped the bike and sat, staring up at the gleaming Wallowa Mountains.

After a moment, he looked down the highway to his left, where he could barely see the barn of his stepfather’s ranch through a fringe of timber, and smoke rising straight up from a hidden chimney. “So the bastard’s home already,” muttered the boy. “Bet he’s wondering why the fence ain’t fixed and the ditch ain’t dug!” He smiled under the goggles. He then bent to the side and pulled out his long knife, which he held at arm’s length toward the Wallowa Mountains. He then turned and pointed the knife at his father’s farm.

“You’ll see me again, old man. When I am stronger and smarter... when no one will be good enough to catch me, I’ll come one night through the timber like the old ones did, the blanket wearers, like Ollokot and White Bird, on them big Appaloosas stepping so careful. And you’ll wake up in the black morning and my knife will be down against your throat.....and then you will know sure that my mother, who you ruined, was never worthless, never....”

After a moment the boy put his knife carefully away in his boot, gunned his Harley-Davidson, and turned out on the Enterprise Highway, headed west, to Umatilla and the Columbia River.